The ports of Shimonoseki (Yamaguchi Pref.) and Moji (Fukuoka Pref.) across the Kanmon Strait are deeply linked. In Shimonoseki, Karato Market is lined with succulent sushi on weekends. Pufferfish can be poisonous, but our reporter tries this expensive, local delicacy. Then she crosses the undersea tunnel and tours the historic buildings in Moji. At a gallery, she watches young artists at work. Also, we get insider advice on the Shikoku Pilgrimage of 88 temples, where race and status disappear. Reporter: Kellie Holway