The mayors of Great Britain - robed, chained, and surrounded by pomp - are under fire. Chosen for seniority and not for talent, they are frequently accused of being pompous but powerless, traditional but irrelevant. We, the rate-payers, pay for them. What do we get back for our money? The Royal Commission on local government is examining the role of mayors. But how do the mayors themselves interpret their duties, behave behind the scenes, give us value for our money?