Our correspondent makes a spiritual, 1-day pilgrimage to Mt. Yudono, Yamagata Pref., led by a yamabushi monk of the Shugendo mountain faith. Dorogawa Onsen, at the foot of Mt. Omine, Nara Pref. – another yamabushi pilgrimage location – is a rest town for yamabushi before they head for their ascetic training. Inns along the streets evoke images of yesteryear, and the canyons and caves are fun to explore. And, walk the passages, tunnels and ruins of a fortress on Sarushima, an uninhabited island.